Food

Taste of heaven

We asked our Napoli fan reporter Alessio Costabile what to eat ahead of a game at the Stadio Diego Armando Maradona. Fair to say, we were spoiled for choice

PHOTOGRAPHY Ivan Romano

An Italian blindfolded and transported to a surprise destination would need less than a minute to work out where they were, especially if you sat them down at the table of a café or restaurant. Naturally, Naples has its own special approach when it comes to food and drink, so make sure you get to the stadium well before kick-off and do like the locals. And where better to start than with a slice of pizza. ‍

Fit for a queen

The modern pizza traces its roots back to Naples, where it started life as a way of using up ingredients that would otherwise have gone to waste. These days, pizza is eaten the world over, but nowhere is it quite as good as in its birthplace, and there’s one that’s still unique to these parts: the Parigina. A closed pizza filled with mozzarella, tomato and ham, it is baked in a pan, which gives it a flakier consistency. The Parigina was created in the late 18th century by a court cook ‘for the queen’ (p’ a’ riggina in the local dialect). Chalet Gazebo, a historic meeting point for Azzurri fans just outside the stadium, is a good place to give it a try.

Pasta pie

If pizza and pasta are the undisputed champions of Neapolitan food, frittata ’e pasta is the unsung hero. A hugely popular dish, like pizza it was created as a way of using up leftovers and couldn’t be simpler to put together: pour cooked pasta into a bowl, add cold meats, cheese and eggs, sprinkle liberally with grated pecorino and mix. Transfer to a covered pan and cook, turning over halfway. The divine result is a cross between an omelette and baked pasta, perfect to be portioned out, packaged up and taken away. Keep an eye out for street vendors selling its younger sibling, frittatina ’e pasta. These are smaller portions – three or four bites – of frittata di pasta which have been breaded, deep-fried and sold hot.‍

Lighter bites

For a (slightly) lighter option, there’s the tarallo ’nzogna e pepe, a twisted pretzel containing lard, black pepper and almonds. Originating as a way for bakers to use up their unused supplies (are you spotting a theme yet?), it quickly became popular throughout Italy. Sold hot, I recommend the taralli from Enoteca Stadio, a stone’s throw from Curva B. As for sandwiches, three popular options are sausage and friarielli (a pan-fried variety of broccoli), Neapolitan-style aubergine parmigiana, and meatballs in tomato sauce. ‍

An Italian blindfolded and transported to a surprise destination would need less than a minute to work out where they were, especially if you sat them down at the table of a café or restaurant. Naturally, Naples has its own special approach when it comes to food and drink, so make sure you get to the stadium well before kick-off and do like the locals. And where better to start than with a slice of pizza. ‍

Fit for a queen

The modern pizza traces its roots back to Naples, where it started life as a way of using up ingredients that would otherwise have gone to waste. These days, pizza is eaten the world over, but nowhere is it quite as good as in its birthplace, and there’s one that’s still unique to these parts: the Parigina. A closed pizza filled with mozzarella, tomato and ham, it is baked in a pan, which gives it a flakier consistency. The Parigina was created in the late 18th century by a court cook ‘for the queen’ (p’ a’ riggina in the local dialect). Chalet Gazebo, a historic meeting point for Azzurri fans just outside the stadium, is a good place to give it a try.

Pasta pie

If pizza and pasta are the undisputed champions of Neapolitan food, frittata ’e pasta is the unsung hero. A hugely popular dish, like pizza it was created as a way of using up leftovers and couldn’t be simpler to put together: pour cooked pasta into a bowl, add cold meats, cheese and eggs, sprinkle liberally with grated pecorino and mix. Transfer to a covered pan and cook, turning over halfway. The divine result is a cross between an omelette and baked pasta, perfect to be portioned out, packaged up and taken away. Keep an eye out for street vendors selling its younger sibling, frittatina ’e pasta. These are smaller portions – three or four bites – of frittata di pasta which have been breaded, deep-fried and sold hot.‍

Lighter bites

For a (slightly) lighter option, there’s the tarallo ’nzogna e pepe, a twisted pretzel containing lard, black pepper and almonds. Originating as a way for bakers to use up their unused supplies (are you spotting a theme yet?), it quickly became popular throughout Italy. Sold hot, I recommend the taralli from Enoteca Stadio, a stone’s throw from Curva B. As for sandwiches, three popular options are sausage and friarielli (a pan-fried variety of broccoli), Neapolitan-style aubergine parmigiana, and meatballs in tomato sauce. ‍

Read the full story
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An Italian blindfolded and transported to a surprise destination would need less than a minute to work out where they were, especially if you sat them down at the table of a café or restaurant. Naturally, Naples has its own special approach when it comes to food and drink, so make sure you get to the stadium well before kick-off and do like the locals. And where better to start than with a slice of pizza. ‍

Fit for a queen

The modern pizza traces its roots back to Naples, where it started life as a way of using up ingredients that would otherwise have gone to waste. These days, pizza is eaten the world over, but nowhere is it quite as good as in its birthplace, and there’s one that’s still unique to these parts: the Parigina. A closed pizza filled with mozzarella, tomato and ham, it is baked in a pan, which gives it a flakier consistency. The Parigina was created in the late 18th century by a court cook ‘for the queen’ (p’ a’ riggina in the local dialect). Chalet Gazebo, a historic meeting point for Azzurri fans just outside the stadium, is a good place to give it a try.

Pasta pie

If pizza and pasta are the undisputed champions of Neapolitan food, frittata ’e pasta is the unsung hero. A hugely popular dish, like pizza it was created as a way of using up leftovers and couldn’t be simpler to put together: pour cooked pasta into a bowl, add cold meats, cheese and eggs, sprinkle liberally with grated pecorino and mix. Transfer to a covered pan and cook, turning over halfway. The divine result is a cross between an omelette and baked pasta, perfect to be portioned out, packaged up and taken away. Keep an eye out for street vendors selling its younger sibling, frittatina ’e pasta. These are smaller portions – three or four bites – of frittata di pasta which have been breaded, deep-fried and sold hot.‍

Lighter bites

For a (slightly) lighter option, there’s the tarallo ’nzogna e pepe, a twisted pretzel containing lard, black pepper and almonds. Originating as a way for bakers to use up their unused supplies (are you spotting a theme yet?), it quickly became popular throughout Italy. Sold hot, I recommend the taralli from Enoteca Stadio, a stone’s throw from Curva B. As for sandwiches, three popular options are sausage and friarielli (a pan-fried variety of broccoli), Neapolitan-style aubergine parmigiana, and meatballs in tomato sauce. ‍

Available now
Issue 18
Get your copy for interviews with Michael Laudrup, Héctor Bellerín and Luis Enrique
Buy now
For pizza, try the Pizzeria Bernadette in front of the stadium on Via Pirandello
By
Alessio Costabile

Sweet treats

How do you follow all that? With something sweet, of course. Check out graffe alla partenopea, a variety of doughnut made with potato flour, but of course sfogliatella is the king of Neapolitan pastries. Created by nuns in the 18th century and perfected and made famous by Neapolitan chef Pasquale Pintauro, the treat known in the US as lobster tail typically comes in two varieties: riccia (curly) and frolla (shortcrust).‍

Shot of coffee

For a classic Neapolitan espresso, head to the Caffetteria degli Azzurri opposite the Distinti sector of the stadium, a hugely popular venue festooned with Napoli memorabilia. But, for the quintessential matchday experience, try a shot of Caffè Borghetti, a delicious coffee liqueur sold in little bottles outside the stadium.‍

Where to go

For pizza, try the Pizzeria Bernadette in front of the stadium on Via Pirandello, or Pizzeria Fratelli Cafasso on Via Giulio Cesare, one of the oldest in the area and decked out in great pictures of Neapolitan and Italian celebrities. Antica Pasticceria Vincenzo Bellavia on Via Giacomo Leopardi is my choice for the amazing pastries and the Enoteca Stadio on Via Pirandello is the place for taralli. Last but not least, for the pre-match completists, make sure you have enough time for beer at the Chalet Gazebo before heading into the stadium.

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Food

Taste of heaven

We asked our Napoli fan reporter Alessio Costabile what to eat ahead of a game at the Stadio Diego Armando Maradona. Fair to say, we were spoiled for choice

PHOTOGRAPHY Ivan Romano

An Italian blindfolded and transported to a surprise destination would need less than a minute to work out where they were, especially if you sat them down at the table of a café or restaurant. Naturally, Naples has its own special approach when it comes to food and drink, so make sure you get to the stadium well before kick-off and do like the locals. And where better to start than with a slice of pizza. ‍

Fit for a queen

The modern pizza traces its roots back to Naples, where it started life as a way of using up ingredients that would otherwise have gone to waste. These days, pizza is eaten the world over, but nowhere is it quite as good as in its birthplace, and there’s one that’s still unique to these parts: the Parigina. A closed pizza filled with mozzarella, tomato and ham, it is baked in a pan, which gives it a flakier consistency. The Parigina was created in the late 18th century by a court cook ‘for the queen’ (p’ a’ riggina in the local dialect). Chalet Gazebo, a historic meeting point for Azzurri fans just outside the stadium, is a good place to give it a try.

Pasta pie

If pizza and pasta are the undisputed champions of Neapolitan food, frittata ’e pasta is the unsung hero. A hugely popular dish, like pizza it was created as a way of using up leftovers and couldn’t be simpler to put together: pour cooked pasta into a bowl, add cold meats, cheese and eggs, sprinkle liberally with grated pecorino and mix. Transfer to a covered pan and cook, turning over halfway. The divine result is a cross between an omelette and baked pasta, perfect to be portioned out, packaged up and taken away. Keep an eye out for street vendors selling its younger sibling, frittatina ’e pasta. These are smaller portions – three or four bites – of frittata di pasta which have been breaded, deep-fried and sold hot.‍

Lighter bites

For a (slightly) lighter option, there’s the tarallo ’nzogna e pepe, a twisted pretzel containing lard, black pepper and almonds. Originating as a way for bakers to use up their unused supplies (are you spotting a theme yet?), it quickly became popular throughout Italy. Sold hot, I recommend the taralli from Enoteca Stadio, a stone’s throw from Curva B. As for sandwiches, three popular options are sausage and friarielli (a pan-fried variety of broccoli), Neapolitan-style aubergine parmigiana, and meatballs in tomato sauce. ‍

Read the full story
Sign up now to get access to this and every premium feature on Champions Journal. You will also get access to member-only competitions and offers. And you get all of that completely free!
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Available now
Issue 18
Get your copy for interviews with Michael Laudrup, Héctor Bellerín and Luis Enrique
Buy now
For pizza, try the Pizzeria Bernadette in front of the stadium on Via Pirandello
By
Alessio Costabile

Sweet treats

How do you follow all that? With something sweet, of course. Check out graffe alla partenopea, a variety of doughnut made with potato flour, but of course sfogliatella is the king of Neapolitan pastries. Created by nuns in the 18th century and perfected and made famous by Neapolitan chef Pasquale Pintauro, the treat known in the US as lobster tail typically comes in two varieties: riccia (curly) and frolla (shortcrust).‍

Shot of coffee

For a classic Neapolitan espresso, head to the Caffetteria degli Azzurri opposite the Distinti sector of the stadium, a hugely popular venue festooned with Napoli memorabilia. But, for the quintessential matchday experience, try a shot of Caffè Borghetti, a delicious coffee liqueur sold in little bottles outside the stadium.‍

Where to go

For pizza, try the Pizzeria Bernadette in front of the stadium on Via Pirandello, or Pizzeria Fratelli Cafasso on Via Giulio Cesare, one of the oldest in the area and decked out in great pictures of Neapolitan and Italian celebrities. Antica Pasticceria Vincenzo Bellavia on Via Giacomo Leopardi is my choice for the amazing pastries and the Enoteca Stadio on Via Pirandello is the place for taralli. Last but not least, for the pre-match completists, make sure you have enough time for beer at the Chalet Gazebo before heading into the stadium.

Food

Taste of heaven

We asked our Napoli fan reporter Alessio Costabile what to eat ahead of a game at the Stadio Diego Armando Maradona. Fair to say, we were spoiled for choice

PHOTOGRAPHY Ivan Romano

An Italian blindfolded and transported to a surprise destination would need less than a minute to work out where they were, especially if you sat them down at the table of a café or restaurant. Naturally, Naples has its own special approach when it comes to food and drink, so make sure you get to the stadium well before kick-off and do like the locals. And where better to start than with a slice of pizza. ‍

Fit for a queen

The modern pizza traces its roots back to Naples, where it started life as a way of using up ingredients that would otherwise have gone to waste. These days, pizza is eaten the world over, but nowhere is it quite as good as in its birthplace, and there’s one that’s still unique to these parts: the Parigina. A closed pizza filled with mozzarella, tomato and ham, it is baked in a pan, which gives it a flakier consistency. The Parigina was created in the late 18th century by a court cook ‘for the queen’ (p’ a’ riggina in the local dialect). Chalet Gazebo, a historic meeting point for Azzurri fans just outside the stadium, is a good place to give it a try.

Pasta pie

If pizza and pasta are the undisputed champions of Neapolitan food, frittata ’e pasta is the unsung hero. A hugely popular dish, like pizza it was created as a way of using up leftovers and couldn’t be simpler to put together: pour cooked pasta into a bowl, add cold meats, cheese and eggs, sprinkle liberally with grated pecorino and mix. Transfer to a covered pan and cook, turning over halfway. The divine result is a cross between an omelette and baked pasta, perfect to be portioned out, packaged up and taken away. Keep an eye out for street vendors selling its younger sibling, frittatina ’e pasta. These are smaller portions – three or four bites – of frittata di pasta which have been breaded, deep-fried and sold hot.‍

Lighter bites

For a (slightly) lighter option, there’s the tarallo ’nzogna e pepe, a twisted pretzel containing lard, black pepper and almonds. Originating as a way for bakers to use up their unused supplies (are you spotting a theme yet?), it quickly became popular throughout Italy. Sold hot, I recommend the taralli from Enoteca Stadio, a stone’s throw from Curva B. As for sandwiches, three popular options are sausage and friarielli (a pan-fried variety of broccoli), Neapolitan-style aubergine parmigiana, and meatballs in tomato sauce. ‍

An Italian blindfolded and transported to a surprise destination would need less than a minute to work out where they were, especially if you sat them down at the table of a café or restaurant. Naturally, Naples has its own special approach when it comes to food and drink, so make sure you get to the stadium well before kick-off and do like the locals. And where better to start than with a slice of pizza. ‍

Fit for a queen

The modern pizza traces its roots back to Naples, where it started life as a way of using up ingredients that would otherwise have gone to waste. These days, pizza is eaten the world over, but nowhere is it quite as good as in its birthplace, and there’s one that’s still unique to these parts: the Parigina. A closed pizza filled with mozzarella, tomato and ham, it is baked in a pan, which gives it a flakier consistency. The Parigina was created in the late 18th century by a court cook ‘for the queen’ (p’ a’ riggina in the local dialect). Chalet Gazebo, a historic meeting point for Azzurri fans just outside the stadium, is a good place to give it a try.

Pasta pie

If pizza and pasta are the undisputed champions of Neapolitan food, frittata ’e pasta is the unsung hero. A hugely popular dish, like pizza it was created as a way of using up leftovers and couldn’t be simpler to put together: pour cooked pasta into a bowl, add cold meats, cheese and eggs, sprinkle liberally with grated pecorino and mix. Transfer to a covered pan and cook, turning over halfway. The divine result is a cross between an omelette and baked pasta, perfect to be portioned out, packaged up and taken away. Keep an eye out for street vendors selling its younger sibling, frittatina ’e pasta. These are smaller portions – three or four bites – of frittata di pasta which have been breaded, deep-fried and sold hot.‍

Lighter bites

For a (slightly) lighter option, there’s the tarallo ’nzogna e pepe, a twisted pretzel containing lard, black pepper and almonds. Originating as a way for bakers to use up their unused supplies (are you spotting a theme yet?), it quickly became popular throughout Italy. Sold hot, I recommend the taralli from Enoteca Stadio, a stone’s throw from Curva B. As for sandwiches, three popular options are sausage and friarielli (a pan-fried variety of broccoli), Neapolitan-style aubergine parmigiana, and meatballs in tomato sauce. ‍

An Italian blindfolded and transported to a surprise destination would need less than a minute to work out where they were, especially if you sat them down at the table of a café or restaurant. Naturally, Naples has its own special approach when it comes to food and drink, so make sure you get to the stadium well before kick-off and do like the locals. And where better to start than with a slice of pizza. ‍

Fit for a queen

The modern pizza traces its roots back to Naples, where it started life as a way of using up ingredients that would otherwise have gone to waste. These days, pizza is eaten the world over, but nowhere is it quite as good as in its birthplace, and there’s one that’s still unique to these parts: the Parigina. A closed pizza filled with mozzarella, tomato and ham, it is baked in a pan, which gives it a flakier consistency. The Parigina was created in the late 18th century by a court cook ‘for the queen’ (p’ a’ riggina in the local dialect). Chalet Gazebo, a historic meeting point for Azzurri fans just outside the stadium, is a good place to give it a try.

Pasta pie

If pizza and pasta are the undisputed champions of Neapolitan food, frittata ’e pasta is the unsung hero. A hugely popular dish, like pizza it was created as a way of using up leftovers and couldn’t be simpler to put together: pour cooked pasta into a bowl, add cold meats, cheese and eggs, sprinkle liberally with grated pecorino and mix. Transfer to a covered pan and cook, turning over halfway. The divine result is a cross between an omelette and baked pasta, perfect to be portioned out, packaged up and taken away. Keep an eye out for street vendors selling its younger sibling, frittatina ’e pasta. These are smaller portions – three or four bites – of frittata di pasta which have been breaded, deep-fried and sold hot.‍

Lighter bites

For a (slightly) lighter option, there’s the tarallo ’nzogna e pepe, a twisted pretzel containing lard, black pepper and almonds. Originating as a way for bakers to use up their unused supplies (are you spotting a theme yet?), it quickly became popular throughout Italy. Sold hot, I recommend the taralli from Enoteca Stadio, a stone’s throw from Curva B. As for sandwiches, three popular options are sausage and friarielli (a pan-fried variety of broccoli), Neapolitan-style aubergine parmigiana, and meatballs in tomato sauce. ‍

Read the full story
Sign up now to get access to this and every premium feature on Champions Journal. You will also get access to member-only competitions and offers. And you get all of that completely free!
Sign UpSign In

An Italian blindfolded and transported to a surprise destination would need less than a minute to work out where they were, especially if you sat them down at the table of a café or restaurant. Naturally, Naples has its own special approach when it comes to food and drink, so make sure you get to the stadium well before kick-off and do like the locals. And where better to start than with a slice of pizza. ‍

Fit for a queen

The modern pizza traces its roots back to Naples, where it started life as a way of using up ingredients that would otherwise have gone to waste. These days, pizza is eaten the world over, but nowhere is it quite as good as in its birthplace, and there’s one that’s still unique to these parts: the Parigina. A closed pizza filled with mozzarella, tomato and ham, it is baked in a pan, which gives it a flakier consistency. The Parigina was created in the late 18th century by a court cook ‘for the queen’ (p’ a’ riggina in the local dialect). Chalet Gazebo, a historic meeting point for Azzurri fans just outside the stadium, is a good place to give it a try.

Pasta pie

If pizza and pasta are the undisputed champions of Neapolitan food, frittata ’e pasta is the unsung hero. A hugely popular dish, like pizza it was created as a way of using up leftovers and couldn’t be simpler to put together: pour cooked pasta into a bowl, add cold meats, cheese and eggs, sprinkle liberally with grated pecorino and mix. Transfer to a covered pan and cook, turning over halfway. The divine result is a cross between an omelette and baked pasta, perfect to be portioned out, packaged up and taken away. Keep an eye out for street vendors selling its younger sibling, frittatina ’e pasta. These are smaller portions – three or four bites – of frittata di pasta which have been breaded, deep-fried and sold hot.‍

Lighter bites

For a (slightly) lighter option, there’s the tarallo ’nzogna e pepe, a twisted pretzel containing lard, black pepper and almonds. Originating as a way for bakers to use up their unused supplies (are you spotting a theme yet?), it quickly became popular throughout Italy. Sold hot, I recommend the taralli from Enoteca Stadio, a stone’s throw from Curva B. As for sandwiches, three popular options are sausage and friarielli (a pan-fried variety of broccoli), Neapolitan-style aubergine parmigiana, and meatballs in tomato sauce. ‍

Available now
Issue 18
Get your copy for interviews with Michael Laudrup, Héctor Bellerín and Luis Enrique
Buy now
For pizza, try the Pizzeria Bernadette in front of the stadium on Via Pirandello
By
Alessio Costabile

Sweet treats

How do you follow all that? With something sweet, of course. Check out graffe alla partenopea, a variety of doughnut made with potato flour, but of course sfogliatella is the king of Neapolitan pastries. Created by nuns in the 18th century and perfected and made famous by Neapolitan chef Pasquale Pintauro, the treat known in the US as lobster tail typically comes in two varieties: riccia (curly) and frolla (shortcrust).‍

Shot of coffee

For a classic Neapolitan espresso, head to the Caffetteria degli Azzurri opposite the Distinti sector of the stadium, a hugely popular venue festooned with Napoli memorabilia. But, for the quintessential matchday experience, try a shot of Caffè Borghetti, a delicious coffee liqueur sold in little bottles outside the stadium.‍

Where to go

For pizza, try the Pizzeria Bernadette in front of the stadium on Via Pirandello, or Pizzeria Fratelli Cafasso on Via Giulio Cesare, one of the oldest in the area and decked out in great pictures of Neapolitan and Italian celebrities. Antica Pasticceria Vincenzo Bellavia on Via Giacomo Leopardi is my choice for the amazing pastries and the Enoteca Stadio on Via Pirandello is the place for taralli. Last but not least, for the pre-match completists, make sure you have enough time for beer at the Chalet Gazebo before heading into the stadium.

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