'It's Union that smiles'

An incessant thunder of noise, a broiling sea of yellow and blue, and a heck of a lot of guts – meet one of the Champions League’s newest debutants, Royale Union Saint-Gilloise

WORDS Dom Hogan | PHOTOGRAPHY Birgit Dieryck

History
It’s early August and, about an hour before kick-off, the Chaussée de Bruxelles in the Belgian capital’s Forest district has been totally transformed. A residential street any other day of the week, right now it’s a melee of yellow shirts, febrile excitement and looks of surprise, as if these Royale Union Saint-Gilloise fans still can’t believe they are watching their first fixture here as champions in nearly a century.

Where the road meets the corner of the aptly named Rue du Stade, local fan bar Union’s Taverne busily oils the voices which will drown out all else with a passionate cavalcade of song in the hours to come. Here and everywhere, Union followers spill onto the street in the shadow of their home ground, the Stade Joseph Marien. I’m here for Union SG’s first home game of the new league season against OH Leuven, and although Europe is still some way off in the calendar, their supporters are already in party mode. Weaving through the crowds, the scent of grilling meat and the distant pounding of a drum in the air, my first thought is that this feels like an awful lot of scarves for a humid summer evening.

My second thought is devoted to the sheer range of fans assembled in the street, from all ages and backgrounds, while a third goes out to the residents of this street-turned-carnival, before I realise that they are most likely the very same bodies I’m trying to forge a path through. Union have always been more of a community than a football club.

Long considered the David to city rivals Anderlecht’s Goliath, Union Saint-Gilloise have been cooking up one of European football’s most exciting stories in their own picturesque little corner of Brussels over the last five years.  

Once a giant in their own right with 11 titles and a Belgian-record 60-game unbeaten run that still stands today, they dropped out of the top flight in 1973 and remained in the local football hinterland for two generations. Union SG would not return for 48 years, but after winning the second division in 2020/21, they immediately made up for lost time, challenging for the title in each of the next three seasons before getting their hands on the crown at last in 2024/25, their first in 90 years.

Now a new frontier awaits this perennial underdog and their legion of drum-beating, scarf-waving, ever-faithful fans as Union prepare to show the continent’s best that their bite is every bit as potent as their bark. The club, originally founded in 1897, are taking their maiden steps in the Champions League this season – which is why I’m in town to get a sense of what they bring to the table.

There’s good reason for the festive atmosphere as the supporters gear up for today’s game, their scarcely believable title win still only a little over two months ago. I’m spending the day with Union super-fan Miro, who’s showing me the lay of the land, and he’s just as excited as everyone else. The newly crowned kings of Belgium had a shaky start to the campaign, losing the Super Cup to Club Brugge and drawing 1-1 in their league opener away at Royal Antwerp, but Miro was not unduly concerned. No one close to this team expects success to come easy, and it’s that attitude that could serve them well in Europe.

“First of all, what makes Union different from other teams in the Champions League is the underdog mentality,” says Miro. “Even though we played in the Europa League in the past few years, we’re not very well known, and that can be to our advantage. The fans will not put any pressure on the players, which means we want them to play with their heart, for our team, but our expectations are also realistic. That can help them to play freely, like they did against Liverpool [a shock 2-1 Europa League win in 2023].”

“Endless chants of ‘Allez Union!’ and renditions of Bella Ciao are accompanied by a pounding war drum. The message is clear: you may beat us, but we will never be silenced”
the Stade Joseph Marien is filled with character

Originally from Slovakia, Miro is a member of one of Union’s numerous fan groups, bEUnion, comprised of around 300 supporters from across Europe. Together, we witness a superb 5-0 victory against OH Leuven – the perfect after-party for Union’s title coronation, including two goals inside the first four minutes, a double for new striker Raul Florucz and a clean sheet, all soundtracked by an avalanche of noise coming from the pulsating, all-standing Tribune Est.

Banners and tifos wave and flutter incessantly along with thousands of scarves, while endless chants of “Allez Union!” and renditions of Bella Ciao are accompanied by a pounding war drum throughout the game and beyond. The message is clear: you may beat us, but we will never be silenced.

The Stade Joseph Marien can only hold 9,400 fans so Union will play their Champions League fixtures at the RSC Anderlecht Stadium, but the racket these supporters create would fill even the Santiago Bernabéu. It’s a truly unique experience compared with their new peers. I mean, where else in the Champions League could you find backless wooden benches, bushes instead of corner seating, a literal forest almost overflowing onto the ground, and away-end seats that look more suited to Shakespeare in the Park than elite football?

They may not get to play at their home ground in Europe, but reaching the Champions League is a testament to how far Union have come in just a few seasons. “It’s hugely rewarding after we have been so close multiple years in a row,” Miro explains. “The Champions League is the cherry on top of the resurrection of our team, and we hope we can play as many European games as possible.

“It also brings us financial rewards and the potential to help the team grow. For example, to build the stadium up to become eligible for European competitions or to keep our key players after good seasons, with other teams often coming in with lucrative offers.”

Despite reaching the pinnacle of the game domestically and embarking on a brand-new adventure in Europe, Union have retained the humility which makes their story so refreshing. Ask fans for their dream Champions League draw, and you’re given a list of away days. They know they’re about to set off on a journey nobody thought possible.

“I feel it’s always nice if you have some new teams enter the Champions League that don’t play there every year,” says another fan, Fabian. “Union are not a team of big players. They have a different transfer system so they really work as a team, which is unique in the Champions League in a way. Over the years, even though players left, they were able to maintain success as a club, which is really cool. You won’t see one or two superstars but one team, and I think if you have clubs who aren’t among the favourites, they’re always good for surprising other teams.”

The final whistle against OH Leuven is the signal for the entire playing squad and staff to head over to the Tribune Est and celebrate with the fans for a good 10-15 minutes, chanting and dancing in time to the drum. Miro later assures me that this will be the same throughout their Champions League campaign, whether they win 5-0 or lose 5-0.

“Our club’s anthem is ‘C’est l’Union qui sourit’ (‘It’s Union that smiles’), which means we will always be smiling and enjoying the Champions League experience. We support our team no matter what and for the full 90 minutes. My expectations are realistic. We can surprise teams from pots three and four, but it really depends on the draw and our line-up. We are always better in the latter stages since we have a lot of player turnover every season.

“However, as this season has seen way fewer departures so far, I expect our starting 11 can
play very well against strong opponents. Going through the league phase would be a great success, but I would be personally happy also with two or three wins.”

Back out on the street after leaving the stadium, crowd favourites like English defender Ross Sykes and Senegalese midfielder Ousseynou Niang pose for selfies with fans and stop for a chat, with the traditional lines between supporters and their heroes blurred almost beyond recognition.

And really it’s that, rather than the thumping 5-0 triumph, that these fans can look forward to in the Champions League. Not that Union aren’t a side to be feared in their own right, but what they bring is a fresh perspective to elite football. Union are a club with followers who erupt in roars after a last-ditch tackle, applaud the intent behind a mis-hit volley from 30 metres out and make you feel at home, whether it’s your first or 100th visit, treating you like one of their own.

Union are not simply making up the numbers – they’ve earned their place alongside the best in Europe the hard way. This fearless, ambitious outfit backed by their yellow armada are ready for the Champions League, perhaps more so than even they realise.

Where the road meets the corner of the aptly named Rue du Stade, local fan bar Union’s Taverne busily oils the voices which will drown out all else with a passionate cavalcade of song in the hours to come. Here and everywhere, Union followers spill onto the street in the shadow of their home ground, the Stade Joseph Marien. I’m here for Union SG’s first home game of the new league season against OH Leuven, and although Europe is still some way off in the calendar, their supporters are already in party mode. Weaving through the crowds, the scent of grilling meat and the distant pounding of a drum in the air, my first thought is that this feels like an awful lot of scarves for a humid summer evening.

My second thought is devoted to the sheer range of fans assembled in the street, from all ages and backgrounds, while a third goes out to the residents of this street-turned-carnival, before I realise that they are most likely the very same bodies I’m trying to forge a path through. Union have always been more of a community than a football club.

Long considered the David to city rivals Anderlecht’s Goliath, Union Saint-Gilloise have been cooking up one of European football’s most exciting stories in their own picturesque little corner of Brussels over the last five years.  

Once a giant in their own right with 11 titles and a Belgian-record 60-game unbeaten run that still stands today, they dropped out of the top flight in 1973 and remained in the local football hinterland for two generations. Union SG would not return for 48 years, but after winning the second division in 2020/21, they immediately made up for lost time, challenging for the title in each of the next three seasons before getting their hands on the crown at last in 2024/25, their first in 90 years.

Now a new frontier awaits this perennial underdog and their legion of drum-beating, scarf-waving, ever-faithful fans as Union prepare to show the continent’s best that their bite is every bit as potent as their bark. The club, originally founded in 1897, are taking their maiden steps in the Champions League this season – which is why I’m in town to get a sense of what they bring to the table.

There’s good reason for the festive atmosphere as the supporters gear up for today’s game, their scarcely believable title win still only a little over two months ago. I’m spending the day with Union super-fan Miro, who’s showing me the lay of the land, and he’s just as excited as everyone else. The newly crowned kings of Belgium had a shaky start to the campaign, losing the Super Cup to Club Brugge and drawing 1-1 in their league opener away at Royal Antwerp, but Miro was not unduly concerned. No one close to this team expects success to come easy, and it’s that attitude that could serve them well in Europe.

“First of all, what makes Union different from other teams in the Champions League is the underdog mentality,” says Miro. “Even though we played in the Europa League in the past few years, we’re not very well known, and that can be to our advantage. The fans will not put any pressure on the players, which means we want them to play with their heart, for our team, but our expectations are also realistic. That can help them to play freely, like they did against Liverpool [a shock 2-1 Europa League win in 2023].”

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“Endless chants of ‘Allez Union!’ and renditions of Bella Ciao are accompanied by a pounding war drum. The message is clear: you may beat us, but we will never be silenced”
the Stade Joseph Marien is filled with character

Originally from Slovakia, Miro is a member of one of Union’s numerous fan groups, bEUnion, comprised of around 300 supporters from across Europe. Together, we witness a superb 5-0 victory against OH Leuven – the perfect after-party for Union’s title coronation, including two goals inside the first four minutes, a double for new striker Raul Florucz and a clean sheet, all soundtracked by an avalanche of noise coming from the pulsating, all-standing Tribune Est.

Banners and tifos wave and flutter incessantly along with thousands of scarves, while endless chants of “Allez Union!” and renditions of Bella Ciao are accompanied by a pounding war drum throughout the game and beyond. The message is clear: you may beat us, but we will never be silenced.

The Stade Joseph Marien can only hold 9,400 fans so Union will play their Champions League fixtures at the RSC Anderlecht Stadium, but the racket these supporters create would fill even the Santiago Bernabéu. It’s a truly unique experience compared with their new peers. I mean, where else in the Champions League could you find backless wooden benches, bushes instead of corner seating, a literal forest almost overflowing onto the ground, and away-end seats that look more suited to Shakespeare in the Park than elite football?

They may not get to play at their home ground in Europe, but reaching the Champions League is a testament to how far Union have come in just a few seasons. “It’s hugely rewarding after we have been so close multiple years in a row,” Miro explains. “The Champions League is the cherry on top of the resurrection of our team, and we hope we can play as many European games as possible.

“It also brings us financial rewards and the potential to help the team grow. For example, to build the stadium up to become eligible for European competitions or to keep our key players after good seasons, with other teams often coming in with lucrative offers.”

Despite reaching the pinnacle of the game domestically and embarking on a brand-new adventure in Europe, Union have retained the humility which makes their story so refreshing. Ask fans for their dream Champions League draw, and you’re given a list of away days. They know they’re about to set off on a journey nobody thought possible.

“I feel it’s always nice if you have some new teams enter the Champions League that don’t play there every year,” says another fan, Fabian. “Union are not a team of big players. They have a different transfer system so they really work as a team, which is unique in the Champions League in a way. Over the years, even though players left, they were able to maintain success as a club, which is really cool. You won’t see one or two superstars but one team, and I think if you have clubs who aren’t among the favourites, they’re always good for surprising other teams.”

The final whistle against OH Leuven is the signal for the entire playing squad and staff to head over to the Tribune Est and celebrate with the fans for a good 10-15 minutes, chanting and dancing in time to the drum. Miro later assures me that this will be the same throughout their Champions League campaign, whether they win 5-0 or lose 5-0.

“Our club’s anthem is ‘C’est l’Union qui sourit’ (‘It’s Union that smiles’), which means we will always be smiling and enjoying the Champions League experience. We support our team no matter what and for the full 90 minutes. My expectations are realistic. We can surprise teams from pots three and four, but it really depends on the draw and our line-up. We are always better in the latter stages since we have a lot of player turnover every season.

“However, as this season has seen way fewer departures so far, I expect our starting 11 can
play very well against strong opponents. Going through the league phase would be a great success, but I would be personally happy also with two or three wins.”

Back out on the street after leaving the stadium, crowd favourites like English defender Ross Sykes and Senegalese midfielder Ousseynou Niang pose for selfies with fans and stop for a chat, with the traditional lines between supporters and their heroes blurred almost beyond recognition.

And really it’s that, rather than the thumping 5-0 triumph, that these fans can look forward to in the Champions League. Not that Union aren’t a side to be feared in their own right, but what they bring is a fresh perspective to elite football. Union are a club with followers who erupt in roars after a last-ditch tackle, applaud the intent behind a mis-hit volley from 30 metres out and make you feel at home, whether it’s your first or 100th visit, treating you like one of their own.

Union are not simply making up the numbers – they’ve earned their place alongside the best in Europe the hard way. This fearless, ambitious outfit backed by their yellow armada are ready for the Champions League, perhaps more so than even they realise.

Where the road meets the corner of the aptly named Rue du Stade, local fan bar Union’s Taverne busily oils the voices which will drown out all else with a passionate cavalcade of song in the hours to come. Here and everywhere, Union followers spill onto the street in the shadow of their home ground, the Stade Joseph Marien. I’m here for Union SG’s first home game of the new league season against OH Leuven, and although Europe is still some way off in the calendar, their supporters are already in party mode. Weaving through the crowds, the scent of grilling meat and the distant pounding of a drum in the air, my first thought is that this feels like an awful lot of scarves for a humid summer evening.

My second thought is devoted to the sheer range of fans assembled in the street, from all ages and backgrounds, while a third goes out to the residents of this street-turned-carnival, before I realise that they are most likely the very same bodies I’m trying to forge a path through. Union have always been more of a community than a football club.

Long considered the David to city rivals Anderlecht’s Goliath, Union Saint-Gilloise have been cooking up one of European football’s most exciting stories in their own picturesque little corner of Brussels over the last five years.  

Once a giant in their own right with 11 titles and a Belgian-record 60-game unbeaten run that still stands today, they dropped out of the top flight in 1973 and remained in the local football hinterland for two generations. Union SG would not return for 48 years, but after winning the second division in 2020/21, they immediately made up for lost time, challenging for the title in each of the next three seasons before getting their hands on the crown at last in 2024/25, their first in 90 years.

Now a new frontier awaits this perennial underdog and their legion of drum-beating, scarf-waving, ever-faithful fans as Union prepare to show the continent’s best that their bite is every bit as potent as their bark. The club, originally founded in 1897, are taking their maiden steps in the Champions League this season – which is why I’m in town to get a sense of what they bring to the table.

There’s good reason for the festive atmosphere as the supporters gear up for today’s game, their scarcely believable title win still only a little over two months ago. I’m spending the day with Union super-fan Miro, who’s showing me the lay of the land, and he’s just as excited as everyone else. The newly crowned kings of Belgium had a shaky start to the campaign, losing the Super Cup to Club Brugge and drawing 1-1 in their league opener away at Royal Antwerp, but Miro was not unduly concerned. No one close to this team expects success to come easy, and it’s that attitude that could serve them well in Europe.

“First of all, what makes Union different from other teams in the Champions League is the underdog mentality,” says Miro. “Even though we played in the Europa League in the past few years, we’re not very well known, and that can be to our advantage. The fans will not put any pressure on the players, which means we want them to play with their heart, for our team, but our expectations are also realistic. That can help them to play freely, like they did against Liverpool [a shock 2-1 Europa League win in 2023].”

“Endless chants of ‘Allez Union!’ and renditions of Bella Ciao are accompanied by a pounding war drum. The message is clear: you may beat us, but we will never be silenced”
the Stade Joseph Marien is filled with character

Originally from Slovakia, Miro is a member of one of Union’s numerous fan groups, bEUnion, comprised of around 300 supporters from across Europe. Together, we witness a superb 5-0 victory against OH Leuven – the perfect after-party for Union’s title coronation, including two goals inside the first four minutes, a double for new striker Raul Florucz and a clean sheet, all soundtracked by an avalanche of noise coming from the pulsating, all-standing Tribune Est.

Banners and tifos wave and flutter incessantly along with thousands of scarves, while endless chants of “Allez Union!” and renditions of Bella Ciao are accompanied by a pounding war drum throughout the game and beyond. The message is clear: you may beat us, but we will never be silenced.

The Stade Joseph Marien can only hold 9,400 fans so Union will play their Champions League fixtures at the RSC Anderlecht Stadium, but the racket these supporters create would fill even the Santiago Bernabéu. It’s a truly unique experience compared with their new peers. I mean, where else in the Champions League could you find backless wooden benches, bushes instead of corner seating, a literal forest almost overflowing onto the ground, and away-end seats that look more suited to Shakespeare in the Park than elite football?

They may not get to play at their home ground in Europe, but reaching the Champions League is a testament to how far Union have come in just a few seasons. “It’s hugely rewarding after we have been so close multiple years in a row,” Miro explains. “The Champions League is the cherry on top of the resurrection of our team, and we hope we can play as many European games as possible.

“It also brings us financial rewards and the potential to help the team grow. For example, to build the stadium up to become eligible for European competitions or to keep our key players after good seasons, with other teams often coming in with lucrative offers.”

Despite reaching the pinnacle of the game domestically and embarking on a brand-new adventure in Europe, Union have retained the humility which makes their story so refreshing. Ask fans for their dream Champions League draw, and you’re given a list of away days. They know they’re about to set off on a journey nobody thought possible.

“I feel it’s always nice if you have some new teams enter the Champions League that don’t play there every year,” says another fan, Fabian. “Union are not a team of big players. They have a different transfer system so they really work as a team, which is unique in the Champions League in a way. Over the years, even though players left, they were able to maintain success as a club, which is really cool. You won’t see one or two superstars but one team, and I think if you have clubs who aren’t among the favourites, they’re always good for surprising other teams.”

The final whistle against OH Leuven is the signal for the entire playing squad and staff to head over to the Tribune Est and celebrate with the fans for a good 10-15 minutes, chanting and dancing in time to the drum. Miro later assures me that this will be the same throughout their Champions League campaign, whether they win 5-0 or lose 5-0.

“Our club’s anthem is ‘C’est l’Union qui sourit’ (‘It’s Union that smiles’), which means we will always be smiling and enjoying the Champions League experience. We support our team no matter what and for the full 90 minutes. My expectations are realistic. We can surprise teams from pots three and four, but it really depends on the draw and our line-up. We are always better in the latter stages since we have a lot of player turnover every season.

“However, as this season has seen way fewer departures so far, I expect our starting 11 can
play very well against strong opponents. Going through the league phase would be a great success, but I would be personally happy also with two or three wins.”

Back out on the street after leaving the stadium, crowd favourites like English defender Ross Sykes and Senegalese midfielder Ousseynou Niang pose for selfies with fans and stop for a chat, with the traditional lines between supporters and their heroes blurred almost beyond recognition.

And really it’s that, rather than the thumping 5-0 triumph, that these fans can look forward to in the Champions League. Not that Union aren’t a side to be feared in their own right, but what they bring is a fresh perspective to elite football. Union are a club with followers who erupt in roars after a last-ditch tackle, applaud the intent behind a mis-hit volley from 30 metres out and make you feel at home, whether it’s your first or 100th visit, treating you like one of their own.

Union are not simply making up the numbers – they’ve earned their place alongside the best in Europe the hard way. This fearless, ambitious outfit backed by their yellow armada are ready for the Champions League, perhaps more so than even they realise.

Culture
Out and about in Brussels

Here’s what 40,000 steps in 30 hours revealed about the best food and drink Brussels has to offer…

Sweet treats

Aksum Coffee House, Galerie du Roi 3

The old city centre is a warren of cobbled streets showcasing the true multicultural nature of Brussels. Nowhere is that better reflected than at Aksum, a coffee shop in the stunning Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert offering Ethiopian coffees, Ecuadorian chocolate, crêpes from Morocco and Mediterranean pastries. The baklava with passion fruit and hibiscus juice was a particularly refreshing combination to start the day.

Local specialities

Fin de Siècle, Rue des Chartreux 9

Fin de Siècle is the place for authentic Belgian cuisine, offering the borderline challenging portions you’d expect from a meal at your grandparents’. The go-to options are the stoemp saucisses and the carbonades à la bière. The former is a sort of mashed potato with bacon and vegetables, served with an enormous sausage and flooded in gravy. But the latter is the true star – tender, slow-cooked beef served with creamy mashed potato and a rich beer-infused sauce. You’ll sense there’s a theme to traditional Belgian food….

Beer stop

Brasserie Verschueren, Parvis de Saint-Gilles 11

For a quick drink or two, head to Brasserie Verschueren, a warm, friendly bar with a stunning Art Deco facade in Union’s homeland of Saint-Gilles. Unsurprisingly, it’s a favoured haunt of Union supporters so you’ll be able to soak up some pre-match atmosphere, but don’t be alarmed if any home fans come over to strike up conversation – it’s just what they do!

Waffling on

Vincent Denis Dessert bar, Rue du Fossé aux Loups 50

Waffles – or gaufres – are to Belgium what croissants are to France. You can’t come to Brussels and not try at least one. You’re spoiled for choice, with waffle-procuring spots throughout the city – including the upscale chain Maison Dandoy, old town favourite La Gaufrerie and Belgaufra, who have a spot near the Brussels’ number-one landmark the Grand Place. I visited the Vincent Denis Dessert Bar and went for the chewy yet crispy caramel-coated waffle with vanilla ice cream, which was just as delicious as it sounds.

Culture
Out and about in Brussels

Here’s what 40,000 steps in 30 hours revealed about the best food and drink Brussels has to offer…

Sweet treats

Aksum Coffee House, Galerie du Roi 3

The old city centre is a warren of cobbled streets showcasing the true multicultural nature of Brussels. Nowhere is that better reflected than at Aksum, a coffee shop in the stunning Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert offering Ethiopian coffees, Ecuadorian chocolate, crêpes from Morocco and Mediterranean pastries. The baklava with passion fruit and hibiscus juice was a particularly refreshing combination to start the day.

Local specialities

Fin de Siècle, Rue des Chartreux 9

Fin de Siècle is the place for authentic Belgian cuisine, offering the borderline challenging portions you’d expect from a meal at your grandparents’. The go-to options are the stoemp saucisses and the carbonades à la bière. The former is a sort of mashed potato with bacon and vegetables, served with an enormous sausage and flooded in gravy. But the latter is the true star – tender, slow-cooked beef served with creamy mashed potato and a rich beer-infused sauce. You’ll sense there’s a theme to traditional Belgian food….

Beer stop

Brasserie Verschueren, Parvis de Saint-Gilles 11

For a quick drink or two, head to Brasserie Verschueren, a warm, friendly bar with a stunning Art Deco facade in Union’s homeland of Saint-Gilles. Unsurprisingly, it’s a favoured haunt of Union supporters so you’ll be able to soak up some pre-match atmosphere, but don’t be alarmed if any home fans come over to strike up conversation – it’s just what they do!

Waffling on

Vincent Denis Dessert bar, Rue du Fossé aux Loups 50

Waffles – or gaufres – are to Belgium what croissants are to France. You can’t come to Brussels and not try at least one. You’re spoiled for choice, with waffle-procuring spots throughout the city – including the upscale chain Maison Dandoy, old town favourite La Gaufrerie and Belgaufra, who have a spot near the Brussels’ number-one landmark the Grand Place. I visited the Vincent Denis Dessert Bar and went for the chewy yet crispy caramel-coated waffle with vanilla ice cream, which was just as delicious as it sounds.

Culture
Out and about in Brussels

Here’s what 40,000 steps in 30 hours revealed about the best food and drink Brussels has to offer…

Sweet treats

Aksum Coffee House, Galerie du Roi 3

The old city centre is a warren of cobbled streets showcasing the true multicultural nature of Brussels. Nowhere is that better reflected than at Aksum, a coffee shop in the stunning Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert offering Ethiopian coffees, Ecuadorian chocolate, crêpes from Morocco and Mediterranean pastries. The baklava with passion fruit and hibiscus juice was a particularly refreshing combination to start the day.

Local specialities

Fin de Siècle, Rue des Chartreux 9

Fin de Siècle is the place for authentic Belgian cuisine, offering the borderline challenging portions you’d expect from a meal at your grandparents’. The go-to options are the stoemp saucisses and the carbonades à la bière. The former is a sort of mashed potato with bacon and vegetables, served with an enormous sausage and flooded in gravy. But the latter is the true star – tender, slow-cooked beef served with creamy mashed potato and a rich beer-infused sauce. You’ll sense there’s a theme to traditional Belgian food….

Beer stop

Brasserie Verschueren, Parvis de Saint-Gilles 11

For a quick drink or two, head to Brasserie Verschueren, a warm, friendly bar with a stunning Art Deco facade in Union’s homeland of Saint-Gilles. Unsurprisingly, it’s a favoured haunt of Union supporters so you’ll be able to soak up some pre-match atmosphere, but don’t be alarmed if any home fans come over to strike up conversation – it’s just what they do!

Waffling on

Vincent Denis Dessert bar, Rue du Fossé aux Loups 50

Waffles – or gaufres – are to Belgium what croissants are to France. You can’t come to Brussels and not try at least one. You’re spoiled for choice, with waffle-procuring spots throughout the city – including the upscale chain Maison Dandoy, old town favourite La Gaufrerie and Belgaufra, who have a spot near the Brussels’ number-one landmark the Grand Place. I visited the Vincent Denis Dessert Bar and went for the chewy yet crispy caramel-coated waffle with vanilla ice cream, which was just as delicious as it sounds.

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