Cities

Away days: Eindhoven

24 hours in Eindhoven. Get on your bike and discover a city that has become the dynamic, cosmopolitan heart of the southern Netherlands

WORDS Derek Brookman

Over the past few decades, Eindhoven has emerged from the shadows cast by many other better-known Dutch cities. An “upbeat hub of modern architecture and urban coolness” was the description in South Africa’s Sunday Times – and, with 3D-printed housing, experimental communities and so-called living labs, there’s plenty of evidence of this vision.

Eindhoven has a deep-seated football culture. The PSV Stadion is generally sold out for Eredivisie games, the 35,000 supporters equivalent to 15 per cent of the city’s population. The ground is close to the city centre, a spot that hasn’t changed much in 100 years. Its location harks back to another era: the gables of the Philips company’s former worker housing are right across the street from the main entrance. It would take you less time to walk the distance than to read this paragraph.

Stadium tours take a little longer. You are guided through the changing rooms, down the tunnel and onto the pitch, and of course there’s an opportunity to ogle at all the shiny stuff in the trophy room, including the European Cup won by Guus Hiddink’s side in 1988. This being innovation city, there’s an interactive digital aspect too – we won’t spoil the surprise.

Heading back into town, less than five minutes’ walk from the stadium you’ll come across the Wilhelminaplein, a quaint market square developed approximately 120 years ago.

This is a popular area with PSV fans before and after matches. De Gaper, the Prins Hendrik and the Wilhelmina, three side-by-side bruine kroegen (brown bars), all have their charms.

Delving deeper into the city centre, you’ll be spoilt for choice. The main market square is packed with bars and cafes, and in good weather it’s so busy that – to translate directly from Dutch – you may have to walk over people’s heads to get from one end to the other. Then there’s Stratumseind, the most famous spot in the region for going out. It used to have more bars than any other street in the country (somewhere in the region of 50), but over the past two years it’s diversified to include a greater number of restaurants and other eateries. From Thursday to Saturday, in the evenings and deep into the night, it’s jumping.

On the southern edge of the town is the 4,600-capacity Jan Louwers Stadion, home to FC Eindhoven, the city’s second team. The Blue-Whites currently play in the second tier, although they were once Dutch champions, back in 1954, the final season before the competition turned professional. If you’re in town on a Friday evening and they are playing at home, try to go along – the atmosphere is great (buses 7, 317, 318 or 408 take you there in only 20 minutes from the station).

The city suffered substantial bombing during the Second World War. Consequently, you won’t find the same classical Golden Age architecture as in places like Amsterdam, Leiden or Delft. But that meant Eindhoven had to reinvent itself, and – like Rotterdam – its architecture is modern and often adventurous. One of the most striking examples is the Evoluon, quite possibly the only UFO-shaped building you’ll ever visit. This cavernous exhibition dome, full of unexpected spaces and disorienting angles, originally touched down as a science museum. A short bike ride from the city centre, it’s currently home to the RetroFuture and Spacefarming exhibitions.  

Just beyond the PSV Stadion is Strijp-S, a shining example of urban regeneration. This sizeable complex of former office buildings and factories used to be the epicentre of Philips’ activities. Today, the ‘forbidden city’ has become an alluring mix of studios, workspaces, lofts, bars, restaurants and exhibition spaces. The cavernous Klokgebouw (Clock Building) hosts everything from all-night raves and metalfests to indoor markets and concerts by bands like Underworld. A couple of brewpubs – Rabauw and Brouwerij het Veem – serve up pretty adventurous ales, created on the spot.

Eindhoven is a city on the up. Come on down and feel the buzz.

PSV Eindhoven are 24-time Dutch champions and won the European Cup in 1988

Insider tips

Riverside art

The Van Abbemuseum, situated on the east bank of the River Dommel at the southern end of the Stratumseind, has a large array of contemporary and modern art, including works by Picasso, Kandinsky and Mondrian. The museum’s original redbrick home, which opened in 1936, proved too small for the sizeable collection, and a funky angular extension in pixelated grey opened 20 years ago. Don’t miss one of the world’s largest collections of work by the avant-garde Russian artist and designer El Lissitzky.

On your bike

Eindhoven is home to approximately 250,000 souls and is the fifth largest city in the Netherlands. But almost everything you’re likely to visit is south of the railway line, and – as in the rest of the country – bicycle is by far the best way of getting around (although the stadium is easily walkable from the station). There are several rental outlets, and you can also use apps like Go Sharing and Tier to pick up (e-) bikes for individual or multiple trips.

Great grub

The Spanish edition of ELLE Gourmet ranked Eindhoven alongside Budapest, Lisbon and Venice for outstanding eating. There’s a tasty selection of places on the Dommelstraat, directly opposite the station. Krishna Vilas offers cheap and cheerful southern Indian delights. Antonio’s is a smart Italian restaurant where Bruce Springsteen has been frequently sighted (his daughter takes part in equestrian sports close to Eindhoven). There’s also Greek, Mexican, South American and good old-fashioned British fish and chips…

Chips away

In a country renowned for its fries, you have to do something pretty special to stand out. Friture Martin Zwerts, a ten-minute cycle ride north of the city centre at Boschdijk 436, has been voted Best Chip Shop in the Netherlands an astonishing eight times. You’ll almost certainly have to queue, but it’s worth the wait. They come slathered in whatever takes your fancy: mayonnaise, curry sauce, ketchup and raw chopped onions (frites specials ), spicy hot peanut sauce (saté ), beef stew (stoofvlees )… Eet smakelijk!

Over the past few decades, Eindhoven has emerged from the shadows cast by many other better-known Dutch cities. An “upbeat hub of modern architecture and urban coolness” was the description in South Africa’s Sunday Times – and, with 3D-printed housing, experimental communities and so-called living labs, there’s plenty of evidence of this vision.

Eindhoven has a deep-seated football culture. The PSV Stadion is generally sold out for Eredivisie games, the 35,000 supporters equivalent to 15 per cent of the city’s population. The ground is close to the city centre, a spot that hasn’t changed much in 100 years. Its location harks back to another era: the gables of the Philips company’s former worker housing are right across the street from the main entrance. It would take you less time to walk the distance than to read this paragraph.

Stadium tours take a little longer. You are guided through the changing rooms, down the tunnel and onto the pitch, and of course there’s an opportunity to ogle at all the shiny stuff in the trophy room, including the European Cup won by Guus Hiddink’s side in 1988. This being innovation city, there’s an interactive digital aspect too – we won’t spoil the surprise.

Heading back into town, less than five minutes’ walk from the stadium you’ll come across the Wilhelminaplein, a quaint market square developed approximately 120 years ago.

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This is a popular area with PSV fans before and after matches. De Gaper, the Prins Hendrik and the Wilhelmina, three side-by-side bruine kroegen (brown bars), all have their charms.

Delving deeper into the city centre, you’ll be spoilt for choice. The main market square is packed with bars and cafes, and in good weather it’s so busy that – to translate directly from Dutch – you may have to walk over people’s heads to get from one end to the other. Then there’s Stratumseind, the most famous spot in the region for going out. It used to have more bars than any other street in the country (somewhere in the region of 50), but over the past two years it’s diversified to include a greater number of restaurants and other eateries. From Thursday to Saturday, in the evenings and deep into the night, it’s jumping.

On the southern edge of the town is the 4,600-capacity Jan Louwers Stadion, home to FC Eindhoven, the city’s second team. The Blue-Whites currently play in the second tier, although they were once Dutch champions, back in 1954, the final season before the competition turned professional. If you’re in town on a Friday evening and they are playing at home, try to go along – the atmosphere is great (buses 7, 317, 318 or 408 take you there in only 20 minutes from the station).

The city suffered substantial bombing during the Second World War. Consequently, you won’t find the same classical Golden Age architecture as in places like Amsterdam, Leiden or Delft. But that meant Eindhoven had to reinvent itself, and – like Rotterdam – its architecture is modern and often adventurous. One of the most striking examples is the Evoluon, quite possibly the only UFO-shaped building you’ll ever visit. This cavernous exhibition dome, full of unexpected spaces and disorienting angles, originally touched down as a science museum. A short bike ride from the city centre, it’s currently home to the RetroFuture and Spacefarming exhibitions.  

Just beyond the PSV Stadion is Strijp-S, a shining example of urban regeneration. This sizeable complex of former office buildings and factories used to be the epicentre of Philips’ activities. Today, the ‘forbidden city’ has become an alluring mix of studios, workspaces, lofts, bars, restaurants and exhibition spaces. The cavernous Klokgebouw (Clock Building) hosts everything from all-night raves and metalfests to indoor markets and concerts by bands like Underworld. A couple of brewpubs – Rabauw and Brouwerij het Veem – serve up pretty adventurous ales, created on the spot.

Eindhoven is a city on the up. Come on down and feel the buzz.

PSV Eindhoven are 24-time Dutch champions and won the European Cup in 1988

Insider tips

Riverside art

The Van Abbemuseum, situated on the east bank of the River Dommel at the southern end of the Stratumseind, has a large array of contemporary and modern art, including works by Picasso, Kandinsky and Mondrian. The museum’s original redbrick home, which opened in 1936, proved too small for the sizeable collection, and a funky angular extension in pixelated grey opened 20 years ago. Don’t miss one of the world’s largest collections of work by the avant-garde Russian artist and designer El Lissitzky.

On your bike

Eindhoven is home to approximately 250,000 souls and is the fifth largest city in the Netherlands. But almost everything you’re likely to visit is south of the railway line, and – as in the rest of the country – bicycle is by far the best way of getting around (although the stadium is easily walkable from the station). There are several rental outlets, and you can also use apps like Go Sharing and Tier to pick up (e-) bikes for individual or multiple trips.

Great grub

The Spanish edition of ELLE Gourmet ranked Eindhoven alongside Budapest, Lisbon and Venice for outstanding eating. There’s a tasty selection of places on the Dommelstraat, directly opposite the station. Krishna Vilas offers cheap and cheerful southern Indian delights. Antonio’s is a smart Italian restaurant where Bruce Springsteen has been frequently sighted (his daughter takes part in equestrian sports close to Eindhoven). There’s also Greek, Mexican, South American and good old-fashioned British fish and chips…

Chips away

In a country renowned for its fries, you have to do something pretty special to stand out. Friture Martin Zwerts, a ten-minute cycle ride north of the city centre at Boschdijk 436, has been voted Best Chip Shop in the Netherlands an astonishing eight times. You’ll almost certainly have to queue, but it’s worth the wait. They come slathered in whatever takes your fancy: mayonnaise, curry sauce, ketchup and raw chopped onions (frites specials ), spicy hot peanut sauce (saté ), beef stew (stoofvlees )… Eet smakelijk!

Over the past few decades, Eindhoven has emerged from the shadows cast by many other better-known Dutch cities. An “upbeat hub of modern architecture and urban coolness” was the description in South Africa’s Sunday Times – and, with 3D-printed housing, experimental communities and so-called living labs, there’s plenty of evidence of this vision.

Eindhoven has a deep-seated football culture. The PSV Stadion is generally sold out for Eredivisie games, the 35,000 supporters equivalent to 15 per cent of the city’s population. The ground is close to the city centre, a spot that hasn’t changed much in 100 years. Its location harks back to another era: the gables of the Philips company’s former worker housing are right across the street from the main entrance. It would take you less time to walk the distance than to read this paragraph.

Stadium tours take a little longer. You are guided through the changing rooms, down the tunnel and onto the pitch, and of course there’s an opportunity to ogle at all the shiny stuff in the trophy room, including the European Cup won by Guus Hiddink’s side in 1988. This being innovation city, there’s an interactive digital aspect too – we won’t spoil the surprise.

Heading back into town, less than five minutes’ walk from the stadium you’ll come across the Wilhelminaplein, a quaint market square developed approximately 120 years ago.

This is a popular area with PSV fans before and after matches. De Gaper, the Prins Hendrik and the Wilhelmina, three side-by-side bruine kroegen (brown bars), all have their charms.

Delving deeper into the city centre, you’ll be spoilt for choice. The main market square is packed with bars and cafes, and in good weather it’s so busy that – to translate directly from Dutch – you may have to walk over people’s heads to get from one end to the other. Then there’s Stratumseind, the most famous spot in the region for going out. It used to have more bars than any other street in the country (somewhere in the region of 50), but over the past two years it’s diversified to include a greater number of restaurants and other eateries. From Thursday to Saturday, in the evenings and deep into the night, it’s jumping.

On the southern edge of the town is the 4,600-capacity Jan Louwers Stadion, home to FC Eindhoven, the city’s second team. The Blue-Whites currently play in the second tier, although they were once Dutch champions, back in 1954, the final season before the competition turned professional. If you’re in town on a Friday evening and they are playing at home, try to go along – the atmosphere is great (buses 7, 317, 318 or 408 take you there in only 20 minutes from the station).

The city suffered substantial bombing during the Second World War. Consequently, you won’t find the same classical Golden Age architecture as in places like Amsterdam, Leiden or Delft. But that meant Eindhoven had to reinvent itself, and – like Rotterdam – its architecture is modern and often adventurous. One of the most striking examples is the Evoluon, quite possibly the only UFO-shaped building you’ll ever visit. This cavernous exhibition dome, full of unexpected spaces and disorienting angles, originally touched down as a science museum. A short bike ride from the city centre, it’s currently home to the RetroFuture and Spacefarming exhibitions.  

Just beyond the PSV Stadion is Strijp-S, a shining example of urban regeneration. This sizeable complex of former office buildings and factories used to be the epicentre of Philips’ activities. Today, the ‘forbidden city’ has become an alluring mix of studios, workspaces, lofts, bars, restaurants and exhibition spaces. The cavernous Klokgebouw (Clock Building) hosts everything from all-night raves and metalfests to indoor markets and concerts by bands like Underworld. A couple of brewpubs – Rabauw and Brouwerij het Veem – serve up pretty adventurous ales, created on the spot.

Eindhoven is a city on the up. Come on down and feel the buzz.

PSV Eindhoven are 24-time Dutch champions and won the European Cup in 1988

Insider tips

Riverside art

The Van Abbemuseum, situated on the east bank of the River Dommel at the southern end of the Stratumseind, has a large array of contemporary and modern art, including works by Picasso, Kandinsky and Mondrian. The museum’s original redbrick home, which opened in 1936, proved too small for the sizeable collection, and a funky angular extension in pixelated grey opened 20 years ago. Don’t miss one of the world’s largest collections of work by the avant-garde Russian artist and designer El Lissitzky.

On your bike

Eindhoven is home to approximately 250,000 souls and is the fifth largest city in the Netherlands. But almost everything you’re likely to visit is south of the railway line, and – as in the rest of the country – bicycle is by far the best way of getting around (although the stadium is easily walkable from the station). There are several rental outlets, and you can also use apps like Go Sharing and Tier to pick up (e-) bikes for individual or multiple trips.

Great grub

The Spanish edition of ELLE Gourmet ranked Eindhoven alongside Budapest, Lisbon and Venice for outstanding eating. There’s a tasty selection of places on the Dommelstraat, directly opposite the station. Krishna Vilas offers cheap and cheerful southern Indian delights. Antonio’s is a smart Italian restaurant where Bruce Springsteen has been frequently sighted (his daughter takes part in equestrian sports close to Eindhoven). There’s also Greek, Mexican, South American and good old-fashioned British fish and chips…

Chips away

In a country renowned for its fries, you have to do something pretty special to stand out. Friture Martin Zwerts, a ten-minute cycle ride north of the city centre at Boschdijk 436, has been voted Best Chip Shop in the Netherlands an astonishing eight times. You’ll almost certainly have to queue, but it’s worth the wait. They come slathered in whatever takes your fancy: mayonnaise, curry sauce, ketchup and raw chopped onions (frites specials ), spicy hot peanut sauce (saté ), beef stew (stoofvlees )… Eet smakelijk!

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